This is a transfer process using polaroids.
I use Polacolor 669 film from Polaroid.
Polaroid print from 669 film
Piece of acetate or (mylar) slightly bigger then polaroid picture
Receptor surface (transfers can be done on paper, wood, glass, fabric, metals)
McDonald's Pro-tecta-cote 951 Retouch (this is also a UV inhibitor) (optional)
Choose polaroid print. If you wish you may leave the white border on or cut it into any shape. Prepare your receptor surface by wetting and then blotting it. If you are using paper or fabric the emulsion will adhere better if it is slightly moistened. Boil water and place in tray. Immerse polaroid print in water, face up, making sure it is completely covered. The print will need to be in water for about 4 minutes. Gently agitate tray to keep print under water. Do not touch the emulsion on the image area as it is very delicate. You will notice that the emulsion will began to blister and separate from paper backing. After 4 minutes add cold water to your tray until it is comfortable to the touch. Place the acetate in the water under the print at the bottom of tray. Pick up the print and work with it while it is still under the water. Start at the edges of the print and gently began to push emulsion backwards with your fingers. If there is a gel-like substance on the back of the emulsion gently remove it. Normally it remains on the paper backing but with some film batches it doesn't. In doing this you are rolling the emulsion off so that it's now upside down and the reverse of the image. This is important because this is the side of the emulsion that has to be adhered to your surface. It is the tacky side and will adhere to your receptor surface better. Once the emulsion is completely free of the paper backing, place it onto the acetate and gently hold two corners down. It will take some manoeuvring to get it into place. I find that dunking in and out of the water helps greatly to position it and will remove wrinkles. Do this to each side until you are pleased with the position. The emulsion is very slippery and gel-like and therefore very delicate. Sometimes the edges of the emulsion may tear, however this can also be a very beautiful effect. Now you are ready to transfer to your receptor surface. Place acetate with emulsion side down in the correct position on the surface you are transferring to. Lightly burnish the back of the acetate with your fingers or use a brayer. Slowly remove the acetate by peeling from one corner. If emulsion begins to lift with acetate, gently hold it in place with one finger while you continue to peel and remove acetate. Now that you have transferred it you can very gently manipulate the emulsion on it's new surface with your finger until you're satisfied. It does begin to dry quickly so you have a limited amount of time to do this. Let emulsion dry completely before you do any work on it. Do not use a hairdryer as this will sometimes cause the emulsion to begin to peel. When it is dry you can work into it with watercolors, pencils, pastels or acrylics. Lastly if you wish you can use a clear spray like McDonalds's Pro-tecta-cote 951 Retouch. This will protect your fragile transfer and also provide you with a UV inhibitor. You can also use Krylon UV clear. Have fun playing! Jeanne Germani 2003
sewing is an emulsion on handmade paper
canal is an emulsion on a page from an old book
pouch of dreams is an emulsion on cotton
attic girl is an emulsion on stonehenge printmaking paper
image transfer emulsions recentley created for a book, below